2026 Grand Canyon Hike
It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words. It’s still true, especially when I can assure you that every one of my pictures is genuine and not altered in any way! Due to a two-week work trip, I was able to take a solo trip to the Grand Canyon during the weekend in the middle. And because it was a holiday weekend– I got an extra day! The bulk of this post is about One Single Day, my second day. But first, some more background info.
My first day I hiked 4 miles along the rim of the Grand Canyon. There is a paved trail and in June there was a cool breeze. And there weren’t many people out so I got a lot of great pictures. But this post is about the day after that. Sooo much happened that day– so many interesting things that I just have to tell you and show you!
This is my third lifetime trip to the Grand Canyon. Nine years ago I hiked down the South Kaibab trail (8 miles), spent the night at Phantom Ranch campground, and hiked back up the Bright Angel trail (10 miles). I had trained for 6 months to be able to carry a 25 pound pack and not be devastated.
Last year I went with my husband and kids. We hiked the Bright Angel trail just a mile or two, and then a couple days later I hiked part of Hermit’s Rest with just my son, to the springs and back.
So this year I thought I would like to hike a trail I hadn’t hiked before. I went to the Backcountry office and talked to them. They said there are 3 more trails, and that Grandview was the best of the three. They said it was in worse condition than Hermit’s Rest– neither of which are maintained. They said eat potato chips on the way back up– I replied- Great! I have a whole bag!
The Grandview Trail
And with an entire day ahead of me, I awoke at 4 a.m. and started down the Grandview trail shortly after sunrise, about 5:15 a.m. The night before I drove over to look at the trailhead and went down a few turns. It seemed doable.
However….. when I had checked it out, I also saw on the sign that a person who had hiked it last year– at least they think he hiked it– was missing and has not yet been found….
So early that morning I hoped there might be another hiker I could team up with. There were already 2 cars in the parking lot, and then a few more pulled in, but they were only sightseers trying to get good sunrise pictures.
And indeed the golden glow of the sunrise was beautiful.
I hadn’t gone too far when the trail began to look worse. And worse. And awful. A big boulder had crashed down, blocking much of the trail, leaving a narrow space to squeeze through on the edge. The pictures below actually show good portions of the trail…. (and you can see one of those photographer sightseers in the first picture).
This next photo shows a worse portion of the trail.
Far down below you can see the trail continuing– I zoomed in to get the next photo.
I’m not sure how far I went. Probably further than I should have. Finally I decided it would be much more fun to go to a trail I knew was wide, safe, well maintained, and with lots of people. I headed back up and within 45 minutes total my hike on the Grandview Trail was complete.
Looking back, I’m not sure why they allow anyone on the Grandview Trail at all. It’s hard to believe that there are 2 more worse trails you can try. I’m sure my advanced age has something to do with my thoughts on this….. and also my thoughts of wondering where on that treacherous trail that missing hiker fell…. never to be found.
It took half an hour to drive to the Bright Angel trail. I knew I was getting a “late” start, starting out at 7:15 a.m. So it might not be an “epic hike,” but I could go slow and I had all day. On my drive over, this mother elk and her calf crossed the road right in front of me! : ) She has a tracking collar on.
The Bright Angel Trail
Now while you might think the Bright Angel trail pictures look dangerous, they are not. You’d have to be there. The trail is very wide. Do you see that big expanse of white rock in the center of the picture below? Keep an eye on that. It is going to change as we go down into the Canyon.
But first– some bighorn sheep. Several people I met along the trail told me they had seen some goats or deer. It was fun to enlighten them and tell them that they were in fact… sheep!
These sheep frequently cause rocks to fall down as they move across the mountainside/ canyonside. A rather large rock fell just before I took these pictures. Another time I heard a noise and saw smaller rocks falling as a sheep walked across.
Well, here’s where we start moving down. We move down fairly quickly— no paths are flat– they are all at an obvious incline.
More sheep! These are young sheep, so their horns aren’t very big yet. Even their eyes are big.
I’m starting to get on eye level with that expanse of white rock layer.
Also keep an eye on that little knobby piece of red rock in the center of the picture below. You’ll recognize that, too, as we move down lower into the canyon layers.
[It has a name– The Battleship. But if you forget that and search “boat at Grand Canyon,” google search is not smart enough to figure outwhat you’re looking for. And if you start searching for buttes at the Grand Canyon, google search gets even dumber, thinking you’re looking for peanut butter. I have proof.]
And I don’t really recommend peanut butter for a Grand Canyon hike. It is going to melt (like butter….) and make a huge mess. Unless of course it is enclosedin a Combo pretzel or something.
Now I’m down far enough that the huge white layer is towering over me, and the topmost layer is starting to move out of site. It’s funny, it is; When you are all the way down by the river, there are not many places that you can look up and see all the canyon layers to the top of the canyon. You are very closed in and can only see the layer(s) closest to you.
And now I’ve hiked so far, that that huge tall white layer is starting to look small above me. One of the reason I enjoy hiking the Grand Canyon so much, is how the view constantly changes like this. It’s amazing. And now– ah! The Mile-and-a-Half resthouse is in sight– and it has solar panels on it. It has drinkable running water and composting toilets.
I get pictures like the one below by stopping and looking back up where I’ve been.
Ants
Soon after the Mile and a Half resthouse, the path changes from white to red. I’ve hiked down into the red layer. Well, I heard a lot of voices and I’m looking around, and off in the distance I see a group of people. Can you see them? You may really have to zoom in! I LOVE taking photos like this to show the perspective of how HUGE those canyon walls are.
I think you can see them better in this picture.
Well, after I took their picture, I had an idea. [I had had a similar idea the day before but the person misunderstood me and it didn’t work.] I started hiking down to meet them as they were coming up. I asked if they had a good photographer among them. They said, Sure, do you want us to take your picture? I said, kinda. I do want to ask a favor. And I showed them the pictures I had taken of them. They loved it! I said, Ok. Now, I want to go down to that corner, while you keep hiking up, and then you turn and take a picture of me and text it to me. Can you do that? And I’ll text you the pictures I took of you! They thought that was a great idea and asked if I had Airdrop or something. I said no, I’m old. And I’m going to wait to text you your pictures until you text me mine! And I told them how I had tried a similar thing yesterday and the guy instead took pictures totally opposite away from me and totally misunderstood the assignment.
So we parted ways and they hollered that they got it– and then– when I tried texting them their pictures– I didn’t have service at that corner anymore! Rats! Well, I kept moving and eventually our photos made it to each other. Can you spot me?
See that knobby part? It’s looking different now, isn’t it? Not only did I move closer, I’m moving around to the side of it.
Jogging
Soon after leaving the 1.5 mile rest house (I didn’t have to rest long– after all, I was headed down, it was cool, and it was still easy), a lone lady overtook me. I started chatting with her, telling her about my morning and my late start. She was fairly local, living about an hour away, had also had a late start, and had been coming to hike for 50 years! If I was going to keep chatting, I was going to have to jog. My feet were already hurting– I had started getting blisters the day before– I think it was my socks– but blisters are a superficial thing– my ankles and knees and everything else was fine. So I jogged a little– still using my hiking poles– and it didn’t hurt much worse, so I kept going.
We talked about how 3 people had died last week of heat exhaustion– she hadn’t heard. Yes, they were 72, and then 67 and 68 in two separate incidents, on different trails than Bright Angel, the trail we were on. I said I didn’t know people those ages who should be doing strenuous hikes like these. That’s when she told me she was 74. And that she didn’t have knee problems as she jogged without hiking poles and gave me a run for my money.
Maybe she was jogging because she wanted to hike in peace instead of talk to me… well, if that was the case, I let her go when we got to the 3 mile Rest House, which also has drinkable running water and composting toilets. She was turning around anyway, and I was contemplating going further.
Here is a Panoramic video that I took.
At 3 Mile is where you see this Caution Sign, warning you that “Going Down is Optional: Coming Up is Mandatory.” It’s because after this point it gets noticeably hotter, and you will have much further to go on your return trip– which, by the way, is entirely Uphill. See that knobby protrusion in the red rock? It’s quite a bit higher than us, now!! Because we are now 3 miles down into the canyon. Well, 3 miles via zigzagging trails. Not really 3 miles straight down.
Four Legs
While I was sitting and resting and eating my snacks, I noticed something– Riders on mules coming down the canyon! More creatures to give perspective of the landscape! Another reason I like taking photos– I can look back later at the time they were taking and know what happened when– which is why I will be able to tell you how long my hike took and approximately how long I rested along the way.
I waited until they got closer, and took a video. I was sitting down and resting, and you will hear the leader ask me to stand. I suppose that was so I wouldn’t make a sudden movement that might startle the mules, and by standing, they would notice me in advance.
And then I watched as they continued down….
Cat…. er….. what?!
Well, through the red layer and on to another white layer– and what is that way down there? Could it possibly be? It is!
Oh wait, let’s look back and up first. We can barely see to the top of the canyon. That big white wall is looking very small. And the knobby red thing? We are so far below, it’s being blocked from view by the canyon walls. If we could see it, it’s off to the upper right somewhere.
Yep, it’s a Caterpillar. And some pink fencing. Well how do you suppose that got there? While mules can easily trek the trails, even this small skidloader wouldn’t be able to do it. It would have to be a helicopter. And yes, helicopter was right. Later I found out more. This skidloader is waiting to be lifted up and back out by a helicopter but….. they can’t. They can’t because the National Park Service found that an Owl family has taken up residence in the skidloader! So they’re waiting for the owls to leave….
Indian Gardens
Ahh. I’m getting close to my goal. That green section that you see used to be named Indian Gardens. It is now known as Havasupai Gardens.
Which is better– portrait photos or landscape? Which do you take? I notice a lot of people take portraits because they look better on their phone. But if you’re using a computer– then I prefer landscape. I nearly always video in Landscape. In fact I started video-ing the mules in Landscape, and then decided it would be better in Portrait, so I stopped and restarted.
This path appears to be worn down by, probably water is my guess.
And it’s the mules again! Their caretakers were nearby. I’m guessing they will spend the night while the tourists camp at the Havasupai Campground, and return back up the next day.
There were all sorts of buildings that were hidden from view above by the trees. This was a Ranger’s station, but it had a sign that said to go check at the Ranger’s house if he or she wasn’t there. Which makes sense because this building wasn’t air conditioned, but the Ranger’s house is! I poked in to see, and a young girl was charging and talking on her phone.
As you can imagine, my feet were hurting alot by this time, and so I can’t tell exactly what this building was…
I was hunting around for a super shady and cool spot I remembered from 9 years ago, but everything looked different. There were several different paths– even this muddy one.
Ninety degrees in the shade– which is actually kinda cool for the Grand Canyon. You see, this was my first Grand Canyon hike that was not in August! I was here in June for once.
One of these rock buildings looks newer than the other– but I remember neither from before.
And look! Another little caterpillar digger! The Bright Angel trail is routed to go right past this fence.
Well, I finally found the closest thing to what I remembered– this backless bench under a shade tree. I sat down and took off my socks and shoes, and got ready to eat a snack and enjoy the view and some quietness. I had the food in my hands when one of the construction workers came up and said I had to move– because…
Metal Bird
A helicopter was landing in 5 minutes and going to stir up a bunch of dust. Did these people have no understanding?! Did they not realize how badly my feet ached and how far I had hiked?! Ugh. I’ll admit I grumbled a little. I put my feet back into my shoes without my socks, and didn’t tie my shoes. It wasn’t far that I had to go, really. But it was annoying.
And as we waited (more than 5 minutes), I learned about the Owl family in the skidloader. I also learned that alot had changed in 2 years, let alone nine. This big project was replacing the Water Pipeline– a four year project that will supply the South Rim with water from Bright Angel Creek, instead of the 60 year old pipe that was using water from the North Rim and breaking down all the time.
The sun was glaring and I could hardly see my phone- -but I managed to get a pretty good video of the Helicopter picking up its load!
The Two Hour Girl
Another hiker was stopped to wait with me. She had a couple questions, and asked me to hold her bandana while she retied her hair. Mmm, I think that was after the helicopter came.
The helicopter left, and I went back to my shady bench, and the girl followed me. Now that I think about it, she probably followed because— well, she was hungry, and I had food. And she didn’t.
She was the girl who had been charging her phone when I peeked in the ranger station. So she had arrived at the Gardens before I did, but I don’t know how long before. I do know that for two hours we sat and talked.
Her story changed a bit as we talked– how much was true and how much wasn’t, I’m still not sure. For the sake of her privacy I won’t retell it all here. But the basics are– she had money, expecting to buy food and a flashlight. She had started on the South Rim as I had, and wanted to hike all the way to the North Rim. That is a nearly 24 mile hike…. and she had a very late start. She also had no food, or salty drinks. You absolutely must have salty snacks and salty drinks like Gatorade on a hike in heat like this. A ranger had already talked to her, encouraging her to turn around. But she was adamant about hiking to the North Rim. She thought she could get a place to stay at Phantom Ranch, not knowing you need to reserve around a year in advance whether it’s the campground or the cabins. Occasionally they may have a cancellation, but it’s not guaranteed.
We talked about the beauty of the Canyon. I’m not sure exactly how we got started on the topic of God and the Bible– but if I’m making friends with you, then you can be sure that those topics are going to come up in our conversation somehow or another. Her favorite book of the Bible was Genesis. We talked about Noah’s Flood, the thieves on the crosses beside Jesus, and inherently sinful people and where does that leave us, then? Well, it leaves us with knowing that God knew sin was going to happen and so He made a way for Redemption through Jesus, from the very beginning; actually, before the beginning He planned that Jesus would be the way to satisfy His perfect demand.
Frequently I pray that God would guide my literal steps. First thing today, it was because I didn’t want to fall off of Grandview Trail. But also, I want desparately to be used to share with people the Good News of Jesus making possible our home in Heaven one day. I believe that God did guide my steps and my timing today, so that I would end up waiting for that helicopter at the same time as this dear girl. If I hadn’t started at a different trail and changed my mind, I would’ve been at the Bright Angel Trail two hours too early for my divine appointment.
I had extra jerky and dried pineapple and an oat blueberry breakfast bar. I gave her what I could spare, and was glad to have extra. I was also glad to get rid of the extra weight for my hike back up the canyon. I prayed with her for her safety and her needs, and then we went in opposite directions.
I went to the Ranger’s house to tell them all I had learned about the Two Hour Girl in hopes that they could look out for her safety. But they can only warn and let people make their own decisions– I suppose until a medical call for help is made. They see foolish decisions all the time. It must be a stressful job. I went to a little extra trouble the next day to find out if Phantom Ranch had had any extra beds the night before. They did.
I would be astounded if she was able to do the hike in two days. This is because of the water pipe project, and a rockslide, that has closed the fastest routes– It may be closer to 30 miles Rim to Rim, I’m not sure. A hiker I had met earlier was on her fourth day getting out, because of the detours, and she had done the hike in two days a different time just like I had.
Going up is Mandatory
I had made it down 4.5 miles in about 3 hours, maybe less. With the time before and after talking to the Two Hour Girl, I had now taken a 3 hour break. I was very rested and it was time to head back up. Now it was nearing 1 p.m. It was not an ideal time of day to hike, with the heat and all, but there were little bits of shade to rest in, and water and bathrooms every 1.5 miles. I also had a wide brimmed hat, sunglasses, and a long sleeved hiking shirt. I had some gatorade left and my full bag of potato chips and some trail mix. Oh, and of course my Platypus Water “bladder” that holds 3 liters of water. But I only filled it to 2 liters since I could get water along the way and I didn’t need to carry extra weight. (And I did drink nearly all 2 liters the first 3rd of the way back up. Then I think 2 liters more for the remaining 2 thirds of the way. If I remember correctly, I drank about 2 liters on my way down– so 6 liters total for this hike, plus 32 ounces gatorade).
Umbrella Girls
Along the way I met a girl walking down holding an umbrella, no water, looking for her phone. She said she dropped in 10 minutes ago somewhere. I hadn’t seen it. I told her she needed water. She looked about 10, but was at least a teen and maybe in her 20s. An interesting thing at the Grand Canyon is that you hear lots of different languages and for many people, English is their second language, as was the case for this girl.
I kept going, and met her friend who was coming down to look for her, also holding an umbrella with no water….. and after awhile I saw where both their packs had been left as they turned back. I tell you– this Grand Canyon hiking reminds me of The Pilgrim’s Progress— so many interesting people, and so many choices people make.
I found this cleft of the rock in shadowy shade beside the trail– a great place to rest a couple of minutes. I sat down next to the hanging prickly pear cactus.
This next picture is unique because– the layers are tilted at an angle. It doesn’t jive with the theory of sediment creating the layers. But it does go along with Noah’s Flood accounts of the earth breaking up.
I’m starting to see that white wall up there! But it looks so small….
25 Years
It took me 2 hours to reach Three Mile Rest House– 1.5 miles from the Gardens. At this rate, it would take me 4 more hours to get out. But that was the hardest, hottest part. I rested an hour, and met a couple on their 25th wedding anniversary at 3 Mile. They had just come down the 3 Miles. They had brought a small sandwich and a small bag of chips. He was nauseous. This was their first time visiting the park. I shared some of my chips. I could guess their ages to be close to mine or maybe younger. They had no hiking poles.
Zoom in to see “You are Here” and see the diagram of where I was and where I still need to go. And before I forget– here is another great diagram showing the depths and trail landmarks.
The 2 umbrella girls showed up at the Rest House– they had found the lost phone. They were carrying a rather large bag of trash– which you are supposed to do– take everything out that you brought in. Turns out, I think they had started the day before maybe on a different trail, and gone to the river, and were going back up– and had slept along the trail in the night because they had no other choice…. (well, other than better planning…) They also hadn’t brought enough food, because it was taking longer than they planned. They said they had some left, but I’m not sure how much. I shared more of my potato chips. I wish they had taken more than they did.
Most of the little lizards I saw were tiny. But this one was fat– from crumbs of food people drop at the Rest House. (It is illegal to drop crumbs on purpose.)
I saw this beautiful blue bird and was sorry that I couldn’t get a better picture of it. I’m told that it is a Woodhouse’s Scrub-Jay.
Down Under
A lone male hiker showed up at the 3 Mile Rest House. He was in the US for two weeks from Australia. He was a runner and was wearing an Iron Man shirt. I happened to mention that we had driven to Albuquerque last year so we could “turn left at Albuquerque” and he lit up and said he had just done the same thing. Then I told how I was planning to visit Pismo Beach… but he didn’t remember that cartoon so I told him. The runner had come from the river. He started off and of course we never saw him again.
The couple got started back up 5 or more minutes before I went. There was more shade now, and after an hour rest, a bathroom break, and a water refill, I was ready to go. It wasn’t long before I caught up with the couple. I gave them some ricolas to help keep them going…. and again to lighten my load– haha! Truly, I had packed very light— the extra food I gave away really didn’t weigh much altogether.
From sun to shade and back again. It was motivating to keep moving, knowing that the higher I hiked, the cooler it would get. Also, the mules had seemed to move slowly, yet made amazing progress. I knew that if I just kept plodding along, I too would reach the top.
The photo below looks like I’m on the edge. But in the next photo, I zoom out, and you can see how much room there really is. I made much better time on this section between 3 Mile and 1.5 Mile Rest Houses.
I saw another bird– and this may be my favorite photo of all.
I saw my shadow– and had to take a picture…
What do you think that rocky looking thing is on the rock?! haha…. It has a hole about the size of a bird…. Did a bird build that? Or could it be some sort of “disguised” wireless security camera?
The spot where I took my shadow picture is down in that tunnel through the rock. There are two such tunnels or windows near the top of the Bright Angel trail.
See how the shadows and sunlight change the look all throughout the day? And see the Battleship formation once again down below? This view is sort of behind it. When on the Rim Trail and looking at the whole thing from the side, it really does look like a Battleship.
Well, after all that excitement, it’s kind of a boring ending. I made it to the top by 6:15. I had hiked up 4.5 miles in 4 hours, if you don’t count the hour break I took…. So— 3 hours down, 4 hours up, and 4 hours of breaks– 11 hours on the trail, 9 miles total.
I wanted to catch a bus to the secluded gift shop at Hermit’s Rest before it closed– and I made it in time! It was nice to sit and relax on that air conditioned bus, but I was walking very strangely when I got up…
Once back to my hotel, I checked my feet– my blisters were smaller and not nearly as bad as they felt– three small ones that didn’t break open, and a larger one that broke open but didn’t tear off. And two days later my feet didn’t hurt at all– just my leg muscles a bit.
Do you enjoy connecting with people and hearing their stories? I do! And I certainly got my fill of it today. I hope you’ve enjoyed hearing about my hike to the Indian Havasupai Gardens down Bright Angel Trail (It only took 5,000 words…). Any questions? I’d love to answer them!
